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Tyre Changing on a Series Land Rover

A Series Land Rover traditionally rides on tubed tyres; these would have been cross-ply originally, but now radial tube tyres are an option. Either way it is possible, with some effort, to remove a tube and even change your own tyres without expensive equipment. All that is needed is a standard hydraulic wheel jack and two long tyre levers.

A few words of caution first; it is advisable that the vehicle should have all four wheels fitted whilst the procedure is undertaken, so, if the offending tyre is currently on the vehicle then it would be sensible to fit the spare wheel in its place before proceeding. This method should NOT be used if the chassis cross member has become weakened due to corrosion. It is also advisable to use a load spreader plate of some sort between the top of the jack and the chassis.
  Step 1
Position the wheel under the rear cross-member of the chassis such that the top of the jack is central to the cross member and away from any rear fuel tank mounting. The base of the jack needs to be just inside the wheel rim and the jack is vertical as viewed from all directions. This is important, so take time to adjust, else the jack may slip under load. Note that a standard car jack only rises about 10cm and this is often not itself sufficient to 'break the bead' due to the size of tyres typically used on a Series Land Rover. It may therefore be necessary to raise the height of the jack by using a small block of wood as shown in the photo (check no splinters). The block should be the SAME SIZE as the base of the jack.

Step 2
Raise the jack to its fullest extent whilst checking carefully that the jack remains vertical and is JUST clearing the rim. It may be necessary at this point to lower the jack and re-position it/or the wheel slightly.
This will not 'break the bead' as yet but will push the bead down the rim. Now use one lever to ease the tyre bead down a little more away from the jack.

  Step 3
Fit the hooked end of the lever under the rim and carefully press down on the other end with your foot. You should be able to get the second lever in now further away from the jack. Similarly, use leg muscle to press down on the second lever (I tend to stand on both levers using the vehicle to balance). The idea is to work the levers around to at least a quarter of the tyre's rim from the jack (as in photo). Now it just depends on how well the tyre is bonded to the rim. If the tyre was recently fitted and the rim is not corroded then you will have broken the bead already.
Otherwise you may have to hold down one lever at it furthest point from the jack and CAREFULLY use the other as in the photo of Step 2 to force the bead off the rim.

This is a good style of tyre lever. One end curved, the other end hooked. Length at least 60cm

Generally, it is technique rather than brute force that is required. IF ATTEMPTING THIS IN THE BUSH THEN BE SURE OF LEVEL SOLID GROUND. It goes without saying that your chassis cross-member should be in good condition. Finally, if in doubt, don't try it!

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