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Series Land Rover: Easier Clutch Pedal

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After half a century of use, most Series Land Rovers can be expected to have developed some fairly serious issues of some kind; issues that will, in some way, affect their performance. The same can be said, unfortunately, for some Series Land Rover drivers. One such driver's part that tends to fail with time is the knee joint. Whilst spares are usually available, it may not be possible, or desirable, to visit a human garage immediately, to have either a replacement knee joint fitted, or repairs carried out.

The clutch pedal, especially upto Series IIA vehicles, is a knee cruncher when your knee is feeling its age. Rather than limit the use of the vehicle, it can be beneficial to exchange the clutch pedal assembly for one taken off a Defender TD5, as these have a helper spring that significantly reduces the effort required to depress the pedal.

The Defender TD5 clutch pedal assembly should be a straight swap for any of the hydraulic system pedal assemblies from Series I to III Land Rovers. An outline of the procedure is as follows:
1. Disconnect the hydraulic pipe(s) from the clutch master cylinder. Discard the clutch fluid ( a good opportunity to renew it ) and protect the pipe endings from dirt contamination
2. Remove the original clutch pedal assembly bracket complete - you need to turn the assembly 90 degrees to allow the pedal to exit through the rectangular hole in the bulkhead.
3. Modify the pedal height adjustment bolt on the TD5 assembly if necessary - see comments below.
4. Remove the clutch master cylinder from the original unit and fit it to the TD5 bracket assembly
5. Re-connect the clutch hydraulic pipe(s)
6. Refill the clutch master cylinder reservoir and bleed the clutch system.

A few further issues are also worth mentioning:

Mounting bolts
The 6 captive nuts that are used to fix the base of the bracket to the bulkhead are metric on the TD5 assembly, so the existing mounting bolts of the earlier Series Land Rovers will need to be changed.

You will need a new gasket to mount the bracket to the bulkhead if you damage the original.

Pedal height adjustment bolt
All pedal assembly brackets come with the pedal height adjustment bolt at the back of the bracket set to the required distance and locked in place with a locknut. However, you will probably find that the lower positioning of the TD5 bolt, compared to the original unit, fouls the steering box. The solution is to measure the distance the bolt has been screwed in and then remove it and cut it down accordingly. Screw the sawn down bolt fully up to the bracket housing without the locknut in place this should give enough clearance for the bracket to fit - the locknut can be fitted on the inside of the bracket.

Clutch bleeding
The clutch system will need bleeding via the slave cylinder in the normal way, but no further adjustments to the clutch operation should be necessary.

The Defender TD5 clutch pedal assembly is a straight swap for the Series version
The helper spring makes depression of the pedal easier.

When fitted, it looks like the IIA version it replaced.

Bleeding the clutch (early IIA).

The smaller clutch pedal in situ.

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